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Pennine Way Diary
Friday 12th May 2006 Day 10
After a super breakfast at Butt House it was lots of photographs outside the front door and set off to rejoin the Pennine Way where it intersects with the Coast to Coast.
We crossed the River Swale and climbed past the farm where Doreen Whitehead used to live, after a further climb we walked close to the house, FrithLodge, we had stayed in on our own Coast to Coast journey in 1996. It was a long way off the route and I can remember being very unhappy having to walk all that way.
The landscape was different today as we passed out of the Yorkshire Dales National Park. The going was a little boggy as we crossed Stonesdale Moor and soon Tan Hill Inn came into view the highest pub in England at 1732 feet. The gang were already there so we stopped for a mug of tea and a toilet break.
After Tan Hill the route heads north east over Sleightholme Moor and the first taste of a boggy moorland crossing but we decided to get our heads down and go for it and covered three miles in just over an hour. We had a lovely lunch break by the river but the arrival of P and P heralded a sharp shower which required waterproofs on.
After lunch and with the sun now shining we headed for Gods Bridge and the A 66 crossing which a grim tunnel under the road. Peter was pleased as punch that as we emerged on the other side a car pipped and waved at us. It was at this point Peters weather forcasting skills came under scrutiny, getting us all togged up again in waterproofs for 10 spots of rain.
Another mile brought Baldersdale into view and with Eirlys leading the way the descent brought us to the YHA. This is in a very isolated spot and not used enough so is going to be closed in October. This is the reason we had booked in to stay here. The hostel was run by a very friendly young couple who had ice cold beer for sale at reception. Very nice. We all had dorms to ourselves and the wardens girlfriend who was Italian cooked us a lovely meal, homemade tomato soup, chilli and crumble washed down with wine. This was proper YHA because we had to wash up after the meal. It would have been nice to sit outside but Peters rain did eventually come.
There was one other old fellow staying who bored Peter discussing the state of the finances of the YHA. I went to bed and left them to it.
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