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Pennine Way Diary
Thursday May 11th 2006 Day 9
Woke up at Hawes YHA after a really good nights sleep in the top bunk with sun streaming through the window. There had been no school kids in the hostel so it had been all quiet. Peter J had been up early and cadged a cup of coffee from Pat in her large comfortable room. It was nice to have a light breakfast with croissant fruit and yoghurt but Peter ploughed on with his Full English determined to eat 20 in all.
We walked through a quiet Hawes at 9.00 and already it was T shirt weather and Pete and Eirlys decided to bare legs to all and sundry. It was a long hot pull up to the top of Great Shunner Fell which at 2349 ft was the highest point so far. We made good time and reached the summit cairn in time for lunch. Peter J took a picture of Pats legs because he thought they were quite good for a 65 year old.
It did start to cloud over with a clap of distant thunder as we made our way down the flag stones and then on to the inevitable stony track to Thwaite.
What kept us going was the thought of tea and scones at the famous Kearton Tea Rooms in the village where we met up with everybody to stuff our faces again. Tea never tasted so good as it did on the PW. There was a parting of the ways here. Andy was staying in Thwaite, “big stick” was going on to Tan Hill we were off to Butt House in Keld and P & P were camping by the river in Keld.
Suitably refreshed we put on the rucksacks and climbed Kisdon Hill and on to what proved to be one of the highlights of the whole walk. The hillsides were covered with wild flowers as we walked high on the hillside overlooking beautiful Swaledale.
We had heard so much about Butt House and the infamous Doreen Whitehead and we were not to be disappointed. What a fab time we had. Already quite full of scones from Thwaite we had to wade through a plateful of Victoria sponge, chocolate cake and more scones. As there is nowhere to eat in Keld she cooks the evening meal with a choice of three for each course. I had prawn cocktail, beef casserole with fresh veg and bread and butter pudding with custard. Superb.
There were eight people for dinner 4 PW walkers
and 4 C to C walkers including two from Australia so we had a real
good natter. This place was one of the many highlights and we were
very lucky to get in. The YHA in Keld is due to close at the end of
this season so there are big problems afoot for all walkers passing
through on the Coast to Coast and PW. Hopefully it will be sorted
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